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I found with joy that the South Indian blend podi – a rough grind of fiery, crudely milled spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Gather six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if wooden, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves 2

400g waxy potatoes, sliced into 1.5-inch chunks
225g paneer, diced into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
One teaspoon cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
One teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
Two garlic pieces, skinned and shredded
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
40ml neutral oil
1 red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and leave to steam dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for a short while, then strain and blot dry.

Pour the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a chunky blend.

Place in a medium-large bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then carefully mix in the ingredients to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to the prepared skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and set aside until needed – optionally, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Whisk all the sauce elements in a mixing bowl. Heat the grill to its maximum heat, then bake the sticks for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, sprinkled with a little more salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.